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Jun 26, 2017 11:20pm

Julia Usher baking in her home kitchen
Blog Recipes and Tips From Julia Usher

Perfect Pâte á Choux (aka Cream Puffs)

Adapted from the pâte á choux recipe in Madeleine Kamman’s “The Making of a Cook,” this basic formulation can be used with both sweet and savory fillings simply by tweaking the salt content a bit. Though there are different schools of thought about the ingredients that yield the maximum puff (i.e., bread flour and egg whites a la Shirley Corriher or all-purpose flour and whole eggs per Kamman), I subscribe to the Kamman approach after having tested MANY variations on this theme. For more about puff-baking technique and the science behind achieving the puffiest puffs, click here to read my James Beard-nominated article on the subject. Or read on (or view my related video) if you’re eager to dive into the recipe!

Yield: About 6 dozen (1 1/4- to 1 1/2-inch) appetizer-size puffs

Prep Talk: Puffs can be made a few days ahead of filling, but they do tend to soften - even the usually crisp outer shell, and even if contained only after completely cool. However, the good news is: puffs can quickly be restored to their original crispy-ish consistency, as I prefer them, by placing them for a few minutes in a hot (i.e., 400°F) oven. Just be sure to cool the puffs completely before filling, especially with my Horseradish Mousse or other items that will quickly “wilt” when subjected to heat.

Ingredients:

Stuff for Puffs:

  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon table salt (use the lesser amount of salt if you’re planning a sweet filling)
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
  • 4 large eggs*

Egg Wash:

  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 3 tablespoons whole milk

Method:

1 | Place a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Generously butter two 15 x 10-inch cookie sheets and then rinse them under cold water. (Or alternatively, line the cookie sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats, and rinse those surfaces.) Shake off any excess water, so only scattered droplets remain on the cookie sheet surface. (Rinsing will keep the puff bottoms from scorching in the oven; plus, some say the added steam put off by the evaporating water leads to puffier puffs.)

2 | Combine 1 cup water with the butter pieces and salt in a medium (3-quart) nonreactive (stainless steel or enamel-coated) saucepan. Place over medium to medium-high heat and slowly bring to a rolling boil.

3 | Remove from the heat and quickly add the flour all at once, stirring well to keep the mixture lump-free. Adding the flour all at once at the rolling boil allows the flour to absorb more water, which, in turn, means you’ll be able to incorporate more eggs later. Eggs act as the primary leavening agent in this recipe, so more eggs and less water result in puffier puffs at the end of the day.

4 | Return the pan to medium heat and dry the paste by stirring and smearing it along the bottom of the pan with your spoon or spatula. (Again, drying removes excess moisture, which will ultimately lead to higher-rising puffs.) The drying process may take as long as 7 to 10 minutes, so be patient and stir regularly to keep the paste from scorching. When dried to the proper degree, the paste should cling together in a thick mass and have a slight sheen from melted butter on the surface.

5 | Remove the pan from the heat, cool the mixture slightly, and then beat in the eggs, one at a time. (*Note: As a general rule, I like to first break the eggs into a separate bowl and remove the chalazae, the white scraggly tissue that anchors the yolks in the eggs. If not removed or broken up with whisking, these pieces can become tough and rubbery upon baking. The easiest way to remove them is to scoop them out with one of the broken egg shells.) Stir vigorously to avoid cooking the eggs upon contact with the hot paste. Cooked eggs will lead not only to gritty puffs, but also to ones that are undesirably flat. To keep the mixture thick and easy to handle, only incorporate the next egg after the previous one has been uniformly absorbed by the paste.

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